Kananaskis

Kananaskis Obscure

A great mini-guide to climbing and other adventures that can be found in Kananaskis and around Calgary.
Thanks to Greg Cornell for compiling this.

Kananaskis Obscure Version 1 - 2004

Includes: The Fold, aid routes near Barrier dam, Rucksack Ridge and others.

Part 1
Part 2

Kananaskis Obscure Version 2 - 2005

Prairie Creek

A number of link-ups have been established on Petra (Prairie Creek. p. 326). Some of these are reported to be "better" than the original climbs as shown on the topo in the guidebook.

1. Swimming to Cambodia, 13a. Start on Bible Prophecy, traverse left at the bulge past a connecting bolt into Mighty Expectations. Continue left into A67 to finish.
2. Saint Daren, 12a. Same start as Bible Prophecy. Once on Mighty, finish as per that route.
3. Bible Juice, 12c. Same start as Bible Prophecy. Up and traverse left to where Booty Juice meets. Finish on that line.

White Buddha

Brown Trout - This bolted route is a continuation of the boulder problem
Trout Fishing in America. From the finishing pocket on that problem,
continue out left for 4 bolts to an anchor. ~12b from the sitdown start.

Hammer Royale - This is another bolted route which starts as a boulder
problem. Begin at the far left end of The Fishing Hole where it is possible
to step onto the rock and start with a no hands rest. Begin traversing into
the start of If Brad Had A Hammer and all the way across The Fishing Hole
area generally using the finishing holds of most of the problems there

Blitzcrag, eh

“Blitzcrag, eh”
4 pitch 5.10a/b all bolted.
8 quickdraws, anchors, 60m rope
Cam Henderson and Brian Spear June 1st 2007
 
The route climbs Barrier Lake Buttress and is entirely bolt protected.
From the Barrier Dam parking lot bike (20 minutes) or hike to the
campsite just south of the Jewel pass junction. Hike easily up through
the trees.
 

Barrier Bluffs Update

5 new pitches added to the Yellow Wall at Barrier Bluffs in K-Country.
All are 5.11 climbs which add some good alternatives to the Yellow Wall, significantly expanding what available
at this level on the crag.
 

Prairie Creek - New Routes

Chicklet Fangs (5.10+; 6 bolts+anchors). Start ~20m uphill from Alberta Bound/Got Mersey Beat. Climb up the steep, bulge, moving left until below an open book corner. Climb up into the corner with difficulty and then cruise to the top. There is a "right" way and a hard way to do this. ;)

New routes where the approach trail meets the wall: (comment from Jon)

Mt. Baldy Crag - New Routes

Danile Larsen writes:


There is a new route, Aeden's Adventure, 10a, 25m at the north west end of the area, around the corner and up the drainage about 50 m on the left. Comments on the route and on the grading are welcomed. Cheers, happy climbing

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