"The name is slang for someone who holds moderately leftist views and the route keeps trending left (quoted from Jones who did the FA with George Homer in '73) Sustained 5.8 climbing with occasional 5.10- moves. Intricate rock with amazing position and positive belay stances. Could be the Squamish Buttress of Canmore with more traffic," said Jon Walsh.
Summer 2013 Update.
- New safety line on ledge (body weight only)
- Tons of bolts on approach pitch
- More direct trail
- New lines, old lines retrobolted, etc.
Gift Card 90M 10C
Armadillo Buttress, Grotto Canyon, Alberta.
Ian Greant, Brian Spear - 2013
This three pitch route is fully bolt protected with rap rings at each station.
I believe it crosses Asylum (10D, 1984, pg 423 Bow Valley Rock banffrock.ca for PDF copy) on the 3rd pitch.
Gear required: 70m rope (a 60M may work for descent but have not tested it)
14 draws (if you use a directional off the belay and want to clip the station when you arrive)
Perpetual Spring, 350 meters, M7, Canmore Wall
FA Feb. 18, 2015
Alik Berg, Raphael Slawinski, Ian Welsted
I believe this is the first winter ascent of the Canmore Wall.
Full info on the topo - click here to view PDF
This six-pitch mixed route ascends the centre line of Gobi Buttress on the NNE side of Mount McGillivray.
The route climbs an aesthetic buttress on above-average quality limestone with some worthwhile gear climbing.
See attached files for complete description.
Climbing is mostly 5.6-5.7 with short cruxes.
East Face of Second Buttress of Rundle
Eastern Posers 5.9+R, 450m
FA: BP and MB Sept 09
Mt. Doom (CMC Valley)
Back to Basics 5.9, 170m
FA: Brandon Pullan, Matt Roy April 2, 2010
EEOR'S TAIL ADJUSTMENT!
The following is intended to bring some clarification and adjustment to my MCR regarding Castle Mountain and EEOR’s TAIL that I posted on the 2nd.
This is the very first crag you will reach about 12 minutes from the car. It is on the right (SE) side of the creek at the first mandatory crossing just after the well traveled trail in the woods which is optional after the large pile of boulders.
The crag is short but burly. The rock is surprisingly good though it might be a tad dusty.
"You're Only Cheating Yourself" 12a
FA Mason Tessier (July 20, 2013)
A blank looking line located to the right and up the hill from "Watusi Wedding" and "Jesus Drives a Cadillac" at the end of the Paintings Wall. Starting right of the ledge, crimpy and technical face climbing leads to the anchors 8m. If you use the ledge "you're only cheating yourself".