Calamari Crack, 5.9, 280m
Calamari Crack 5.9, 280m
FA: Brandon Pullan, Michael Quigley, one fine evening in June 2011
A great route climbing a broken up series of cracks and chimneys in an area that could reveal some hard slab routes!
Approach: As for Upper Norquay
Gear: 2 X 60m Ropes, standard rack to four inches.
P1) Climb the corner right of Escargot (60m, 5.7)
P2) Up les corner to its end on a ledge. (20m, 5.5)
P3) Climb the corner till it steepens at overlaps, break out left around arete and traverse (run out) to flakes and up to face crack (40m, (5.9)
P4) Up the stellar crack, at its end go left up flake then across delicate slab holds to the next bomber crack, belay in. (60m, 5.8)
P5) Up the great hand crack to loose black, head right and up another crack to another right facing crack to ledge. (60m, 5.7)
P6) Up right facing crack to ledge, traverse left to upper chimney and top. (50m, 5.8)
Decent: As for Escargot.