Old Man Stipple 5.10+ 400m
Old Man Stipple 5.10+, 400m
FA: Brandon Pullan, Urs Kallen Oct 9/10
This route climbs up the slabs of the SW Face of Mt. Cory, right of the Cory Crack and Clockwork Orange. It can end after 8 pitches as a completely fixed route or one can carry on for two more pitches of mixed climbing to finish up Cory’s Groove to the summit.
The pitches are well protected but sporty, the rock is generally terrific, similar to Guides Rock or STD Wall and all of the rock is slightly off vertical except for the roof on pitch 6.
We climbed the route onsite, ground up over 2 days.
RACK: For first 8 pitches: Double ropes, 12 draws with a few runners.
If continuing to Cory’s Groove: Bring a rack to 4inches.
Approach: As for the routes on the south west side of Mt. Cory. From the road find the large gully that split’s the face right of the Cory Crack. The route start is tricky to find, begin 60m right of the gully up in some trees at the base of a right facing crack.
P1) 60m, 5.8 Climb the right facing corner avoiding the loose block to a ledge, up easy ground to a ledge with a 1 bolt belay.
P2) 80m, 3rd class Whack your way up thru the trees and some steep scrambley rock to the base of the wall, route starts behind a tree, look up for bolt.
P3) 60m, 5.8 Climb a thin slab to a high first bolt and follow the line of shiny hangers up some outstanding stone with shark tooth pockets up wild slabs to a ledge.
P4) 35m, 5.10+ Up the thin slab with four bolts and reachy hidden horizontals to a small ledge, up to the next wall and unlock a tricky thin slab move to the next ledge.
P5) 15m Head right on a ledge to the next anchor.
P6) 25m, 5.10+ The pitch that makes this route worth the outing. Up the faint crack to the roof, a hidden crimp up left and pull thru and up balancy moves on perfect rock, a must do!
P7) 45m, 5.9 Head up the slab with a crack to the right onto an outstanding arete with prickly runnles for all you delight to a ledge.
P8) 55m, 5.7R Up and left on good stone and head further left climbing under a shite flake and up good rock to its left, another bolt and some more easy terrain to a series of ledges, after the 4th bolt on the pitch head right to a belay. (Begin rappels if not continuing to Cory’s Groove)
TO CORY”S GROOVE
P9) 60m 5.4 Climb a short wall to a ridge and traverse far right on excellent stone, passing two bolts to a belay tree.
P10) 45m, 5.4 Head down into the gully, traverse over to the two bolt belay on Cory’s Groove.
P11-13) 5.9 Continue up as for Cory’s Groove, a few bolts and some gear.. Rap the route.