Mt Fifi - Pika Parade 5.9, 360m
From Brandon Pullan via the TABVAR Facebook Page:
New route on Mt Fifi, north of Mt Louis. I had been staring at this peak for years, every time from the summit of Mt Louis, had to check it out. The rock is pretty good. The tall ribs are scaley and no good to climb. We meandered between them up cracks and chimneys. We thought we were gunning for the summit, but our line topped out a knife-edge ridge, far from the main massif.
Approach was 4-5 hours, descent was longer.
P1-P6 were a mixed bag, mostly 5.6
P7 was the goods, 45m up a steep corner crack into a one of a kind chimney. From the ridge top we did two 30m raps, from pitons, down to a scree slope. We took the scree slope, got cliffed-out and rapped down to the base of the mountain off trees.
II 5.9, 360m
FA Brandon Pullan, Nico Magnan Aug/13
Gear: Single rack to 4, double up on the 3's. Runners and tat for rapping of pitons. We brought one rope, recommend two.