Back in the Saddle - Lake Louise
From Craig McGee via the TABVAR Facebook page:
Just finished a new route, "Back in the Saddle" (40m 11b) at the back of the lake. The route is located at the outhouse area, between "Public enemy" and "Pub night" and end of the old route "Brave new world"
Due to the long length of the route and differing nature of each section I have place several lower off anchors. You can simply climb as high as you want or your rope allows, then lower off. You can climb to the top with any rope and lower back to several stations and pull your rope to lower again.
The upper sections are fixed with chain draws and carabiners to make it easier to get back to the station you desire and to cut down on rope drag, please leave the beiners. Clipping all the chain draws keeps the rope in a better position to cut the rope drag; if you don't clip the pointless looking one on the ledge it makes the rope pull at an odd angle and get caught up in your feet.
If your doing the whole thing in one pitch it is best to back clean the first 3 bolts then extend 6 and 7 to reduce rope drag. Personally if I had a shorter rope I would climb all the way to the top, then back clip/climb to anchor C (Look above you in the roof!), this anchor is on a large ledge. Simply clip into this anchor, pull your rope and lower to whichever station works for your rope length.
Please tie a knot in the end of your rope as the rope lengths are rough as I only have an 80m rope right now. I still have to clean some old pins and slings at the top, but other than this the route is good to go.
Have fun, Craig