The "X" is actually a Roman numeral and so should be pronounced "ten" and not "ex." However, this distinction has been lost and most climbers today (the author included) pronounce it "planet ex." This is one of Alberta's premier crags for higher end grades. Many of the routes are long, so bring a 70 m rope and 18-20 draws. Always tie a knot in the end of your rope - some of the longer routes are rope stretchers, even with a 70 m rope. And wait for a warm day - the cliff faces north and never sees the sun.
The Hideaway is the first of the climbing areas encountered as one proceeds up the canyon behind the ACC Clubhouse. In addition to the climbs shown on the topo, there is a 27 m 10 clip 5.10 called "Hidden Pleasures" just left of "Mantle Delight" and an easier alternative start to the right of the original 12a start to "Waiting for the Sun", which makes a very nice 5.11 route.
1 minute uphill from the left hand side of Poolside Crag. The routes are all quite short, but have surprisingly nice climbing.
2009 era notes:The Coliseum is significant new sport climbing area on Grotto Mountain that has beenunder development since spring 2005. It is located in the large canyon west of Bataan, aone hour hike from the Alpine Club of Canada. Currently there are a dozen or so routes that range in length from 12m to 45m. Yes, 45m. The grade spread is from 11a to 13d. The crag consists of three different sectors that vary greatly in character. The Saddle-up sector is long, steep endurance climbing that feels more adventurous than the average sport crag.
A 4-pitch sport route (10b/c ish) about 15 minutes uphill from The Hideaway, between Echo Cave to its left and The Lookout to its right. Catches the sun for most of the day, so it might be possible to climb here on a warm winter day (but could be uncomfortably warm on a hot summer day).
For how to get to The Hideaway see:
Eight pitch sport route in Echo Canyon above Canmore
A year or so back, Greg Tos added a new multi-pitch sport route to the right of Prospect. It is 3 pitches long - 5.11a, 5.11a and 5.12a. The last pitch can be made easier by doing one A0 move. A topo of it, and Prospect is attached.
From Ian Perry on TABVAR's Facebook page on August 19, 2013:
From Greg Tos, via the TABVAR Facebook page:
Here is updated, beautifully set up by Chris Perry topo for Silent Auction, complete with the approach and descend description. It is getting warn enough to get on it again!