Unicorn Canyon

Craig Doram writes on the TABVAR Facebook page:

Attached is a guidebook for Unicorn Canyon, a new climbing area being developed just on the outskirts of Kananaskis. A handful of people have put in a lot of hard work over the last couple seasons to get what I think are some pretty awesome routes assembled. There is still a long way to go before its a well travelled place, but for those who are looking for a magical adventure, please enjoy.


New Route in Canyon Creek

Location: Right of the Moose Patch area, 15m. right of "Spring Moose". Look for bolts leading to a v-groove just left of obvious overhanging roof.
Name: A Moose Once Bit My Sister.
Length: 75m. Grade: 5.11b
Description: P1. 30m. 5.11b (9 bolts). Crux moves through the v-groove. Belay on ledge with an assortment of 6 rusty bolts and pitons (relics from Mountain Rescue courses).

Another New Route in Canyon Creek

Location: Right of the Moose Patch area, this route forms the 2nd pitch of an existing bolted line 15m. right of "A Moose Once Bit My Sister", or it can be combined with the 1st pitch of that route (as an alternate finish), or it can be accessed by scrambling up the the middle ledge via easy steps 40m. right.
Name: Moose Bites Can Be Nasty
Length: 40m. Grade: 5.10b/c

More Cowbell - 5.7, 315m

From Jordy Shepherd via Facebook:

New Route! On Delta Wall, above Highway 40 across the valley from Nakiska Ski Resort: More Cowbell, 5.7, 315m, 10 pitches, bolted alpine sport route. See photos for topo, route description and directions to get there. 

Slabby McSlabface 5.6 114m

A fully bolted slab route with generally good friction. West facing aspect. P1 remains shaded most of the morning but P2-4 get sun most of the day when the sun is high.


Park and approach as for the Baldy crag but where the trail turns left, before the single pitch cragging area, you will see a dry rocky creek bed feeding in from the right. Take this right hand fork for two minutes to the base of the route where the large slabs above drain into the creek bed. The first pitch climbs the right hand side of the gully.