Unicorn Canyon

Craig Doram writes on the TABVAR Facebook page:

Attached is a guidebook for Unicorn Canyon, a new climbing area being developed just on the outskirts of Kananaskis. A handful of people have put in a lot of hard work over the last couple seasons to get what I think are some pretty awesome routes assembled. There is still a long way to go before its a well travelled place, but for those who are looking for a magical adventure, please enjoy.


New Route in Canyon Creek

Location: Right of the Moose Patch area, 15m. right of "Spring Moose". Look for bolts leading to a v-groove just left of obvious overhanging roof.
Name: A Moose Once Bit My Sister.
Length: 75m. Grade: 5.11b
Description: P1. 30m. 5.11b (9 bolts). Crux moves through the v-groove. Belay on ledge with an assortment of 6 rusty bolts and pitons (relics from Mountain Rescue courses).

Another New Route in Canyon Creek

Location: Right of the Moose Patch area, this route forms the 2nd pitch of an existing bolted line 15m. right of "A Moose Once Bit My Sister", or it can be combined with the 1st pitch of that route (as an alternate finish), or it can be accessed by scrambling up the the middle ledge via easy steps 40m. right.
Name: Moose Bites Can Be Nasty
Length: 40m. Grade: 5.10b/c

More Cowbell - 5.7, 315m

From Jordy Shepherd via Facebook:

New Route! On Delta Wall, above Highway 40 across the valley from Nakiska Ski Resort: More Cowbell, 5.7, 315m, 10 pitches, bolted alpine sport route. See photos for topo, route description and directions to get there. 

Baldy Slabs

Two fully bolted multi pitch routes just across from the Baldy Crag.

The left route is Slabby McSlabface 5.6 114m.
The right side route is Slabby Packsmacka. 5.7 124m

Either route can be accessed from either of the first pitches.

Both are fully bolted routes with generally good friction. West facing aspect. P1 remains shaded most of the morning but pitches P2-4 get sun most of the day when the sun is high.

10 quickdraws and 60 meter rope required.  Using a 70 meter rope makes the rappels easier.