Sunshine Rock- Updated topos, Fall 2014

About a dozen new routes have been added to the cliffs and the base of Corral (Paddock) Wall Right was severely undercut in the 2013 flood. Topos are correct as of this Fall (2014) but some information is missing with regard to grades and first ascents. Please comment on Tabvar Facebook.
Note: New routes are identified by blue type.

Gobi65 - 265 5.10a or 5.8A0

This six-pitch mixed route ascends the centre line of Gobi Buttress on the NNE side of Mount McGillivray.

The route climbs an aesthetic buttress on above-average quality limestone with some worthwhile gear climbing.

See attached files for complete description.



Climbing is mostly 5.6-5.7 with short cruxes.

Mt Cory South Peak, West Face

Two routes in the Cory Crack area: Mountaineer's Route (9-13 pitches plus some scrambling, 5.8 or 5.7), this is all bolted but not a beginner's route. It's more like the Kain Route on Mt Louis.

Hoka Hey (9 pitches, 5.8), mixed bolts and gear on mostly good to excellent rock.

Raven Crag Update

Updated topo for bolted multi-pitch climbs on Raven's Crag. Plutonian Shores (5.9 - new in 2012), Lost Lenore (5.10d - new in 2013), The Raven (upgraded to 5.11c due to a broken foothold - fully refitted in 2014).

Blowing in the wind

Blowing in the Wind ** 5.10, 100m
D. Wilding & M. Bramble, April '08

3 pitches of quality crack climbing on the large wall (The flight deck??) east of Alberta Jam.

Rack: 70m rope, micro cams, med wires, doubles from .75" - 4", several long slings.

Approach: As for "Alberta Jam," trending up and right above the first slab. Some exposed scrambling required.

Weird Tales (Free) - STD Wall

User "marcus" writes:

Just want to let folks know the 3rd pitch of this route (5.9 A0) just left of the wet streak far right, goes very free at 11-, mebbe 11c.
Just grab a mitfull of prickly rock undercling with the left hand to gain a sloping rail with the right.

EEOR's Tail - Update

The following is intended to bring some clarification and adjustment to my MCR regarding Castle Mountain and EEOR’s TAIL that I posted on the 2nd.