Phasmophobia is a great 3 pitch route located in the Phobia Amphitheater (Hydrophobia drainage) in the Waiporous wilderness area. We approached from marker 38 in the North Ghost and followed quad tracks on mountain bikes for a couple of hours before dumping the bikes and hiking the last couple of kilometers to get there... an approach from the Waipourous side might be quicker. The setting is stellar... think the Ghost about 15 years ago, before it became a haven for random camping and OHV use and the climbing and rock are pretty good too.
Chicklet Fangs (5.10+; 6 bolts+anchors). Start ~20m uphill from Alberta Bound/Got Mersey Beat. Climb up the steep, bulge, moving left until below an open book corner. Climb up into the corner with difficulty and then cruise to the top. There is a "right" way and a hard way to do this. ;)
New routes where the approach trail meets the wall: (comment from Jon)
Old Man Stipple 5.10+, 400m
FA: Brandon Pullan, Urs Kallen Oct 9/10
Danile Larsen writes:
There is a new route, Aeden's Adventure, 10a, 25m at the north west end of the area, around the corner and up the drainage about 50 m on the left. Comments on the route and on the grading are welcomed. Cheers, happy climbing
A number of new sport routes have been added to STD Wall Left in the Ghost. This part of the wall offers shorter climbs than the rest of the STD Wall, but provides some great climbing in the 5.8 to 5.10 grade on the same kind of amazing rock as the Central and Right walls.
This is the very first crag you will reach about 12 minutes from the car. It is on the right (SE) side of the creek at the first mandatory crossing just after the well traveled trail in the woods which is optional after the large pile of boulders.
The crag is short but burly. The rock is surprisingly good though it might be a tad dusty.
The Lost 500 (AKA Thanks Ray) 5.10c sport, 185m
FA/FFA: Tobias Link & Matthew Breakey, June 2012
FFA alternative Pitch 2: Christine Mireault & Jenna Nodding
The Sunday before the 2013 rain and flood, we put up two new routs at Bighorn Crag in the Sunshine Valley. Hopefully we can go up there again soon.
"You're Only Cheating Yourself" 12a
FA Mason Tessier (July 20, 2013)
A blank looking line located to the right and up the hill from "Watusi Wedding" and "Jesus Drives a Cadillac" at the end of the Paintings Wall. Starting right of the ledge, crimpy and technical face climbing leads to the anchors 8m. If you use the ledge "you're only cheating yourself".
Pools in the Wind 5.11c, 110m - a new 3-pitch sport route on Saddle Mountain.
Actually titled "Fools in the Rain"?