Megabump *** 265 m. 5.11a

1st ascent: Allan Derbyshire, Choc Quinn, Kevin Embacher

Generally excellent rock combined with sustained climbing in a wild setting make this quite an adventure. Located on the upper level of Bumper’s Buttress, above the aptly named Spasm Chasm, this route climbs the obvious giant corner system. The approach takes over an hour, starting from the Sawback parking area on Hwy. 1A, about 10 km. west from the junction of Hwys. 1 and 1A (west of Banff). On leaving the parking area, angle up and right through the trees until you intersect with gravel beds that in turn connect with a creek bed (this being the main descent route from The Finger). The narrow gully of Spasm Chasm angles left below the obvious steep bedding planes of Bumper’s Buttress.

Start: The climb begins about 100 m. up Spasm Chasm, on the right, after scrambling over several areas of jammed boulders.

1) 55m. 5.6 Climb up a short gully to a bolt (used on the rappel descent), and traverse left across slabby terrain to a single bolt belay.

2) 25m. 5.8 Angle up and right to a 2-bolt belay.

3) 55m. 5.10a Traverse slightly left and follow the obvious corner system to a 2-bolt belay. Note: it’s possible to split this pitch at an old bolt and piton belay about half way up, below a short overhanging section.

4) 40m. 5.10c Above are three corners. The climb takes the middle corner to a small overhang, then continues slightly right following a crack until a short traverse left leads to a ledge and 2-bolt belay.

5) 40m. 5.11a Climb the main corner on the left with crux moves near the top. 2-bolt belay.

6) 25m. 5.9 Avoid the loose area to the left by angling slightly right up a slab to a ledge with a 2-bolt belay.

7) 25m. 5.7 Follow the corner system above to the top of the buttress. Tree belay.

Descent: It is possible to walk off the top of the buttress to the east (right) necessitating some loose downclimbing. More convenient is to rappel the route. Two ropes are required.

See Chris Perry's Banff Rock website for a more detailed topo.

Allan Derbyshire, Choc Quinn, Kevin Embacher
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