STD Wall Left - New Routes
A number of new sport routes have been added to STD Wall Left in the Ghost. This part of the wall offers shorter climbs than the rest of the STD Wall, but provides some great climbing in the 5.8 to 5.10 grade on the same kind of amazing rock as the Central and Right walls.
Access: Park as for STD Wall (don't cross the river) and hike up the well developed trail. Before reaching the cliff, (~30m vertical below the base of the wall,) a small cairn on the left side of the trail marks the turn off. Branch left and follow pink flagging tape traversing left under the wall to its far left end end, past the waterfall (mostly dry in the summer.) Look up and to the left to find bolts above a long horizontal ledge. Climb to this ledge directly, or scramble up on the right hand side and walk along the ledge to belay from low bolts or trees depending on the climb.
History: In April of 2012, Tobias Link and I added a new three pitch route to the STD Wall on the left side of the existing routes. Keeping with the theme of the area, we named it "Devil's Dihedrals". We wanted to push the line to the top of the cliff, but it looked like we could be encroaching on the route "Rabid Crack". We did not have any gear with us, so Tobias solo'd to the top from our third pitch. There was no anchor at the top, so we added a single bolt with some small quick links and headed down. I climbed Rabid Crack after, and the finish is indeed above our third pitch (traversing much more than it looks in the topo in Ghost Rock.)
Later in April, we came back and Tobias put the (first in the Ghost?) glue-in anchors on "Devil's Glue". I worked out the first pitch of "Shanna the She-Devil" at the same time, but it was snowing at the time, so we did not climb it. I came back with Jeff Dickson to climb it. We recruited a few more people in September to finish off the cliff: Tyler Kirkland, Andrea DeGagne, Paul Gardner, and Mikael Williams. It was a great time, and I hope you all enjoy our efforts!