Unicorn Canyon

PDF icon 2015-08-12 Unicorn Canyon.pdf2 MB

Craig Doram writes on the TABVAR Facebook page:

Attached is a guidebook for Unicorn Canyon, a new climbing area being developed just on the outskirts of Kananaskis. A handful of people have put in a lot of hard work over the last couple seasons to get what I think are some pretty awesome routes assembled. There is still a long way to go before its a well travelled place, but for those who are looking for a magical adventure, please enjoy.


Unicorn Canyon is located just outside the edge of Kananaskis, between Barrier Lake and Nakiska Ski Resort/Kananaskis Village. It is the canyon on the SW side of Mt. Lorette, and is the canyon Lorette Creek flows down. There are two main areas, “Sunshine Castle”, and “Rainbow Wonderland”. There are also two smaller areas containing a handful of routes, “Pot of Gold”, and “The Moat”. The areas are listed in the order you will approach them as you hike in. Please be aware this is a new climbing area in the Canadian Rockies. As such, there will be loose rock, as there has not been much traffic on the routes. Bring a helmet and exercise a little more caution than you would  otherwise. Having said that, the routes have been cleaned, and most of the rock is quite good.

NOTE: As this area is still under development we ask that you respect the closed projects and do not climb them. Bolt numbers in the descriptions below includes 2 for anchors.


Route Location: