The Playground (Drytooling)

From J Brent Peters

The routes at The Playground are described from left to right. It can be divided into 5 areas: Upper Cave, Playground Left, Swiss Cheese Cave, Rat’s Nest Wall, Mutt Wall, and Recess Wall.

Upper Cave: This cave is located left and above The Playground proper. There is only one route here at this time.

Just The Tip D7 This route climbs vertical terrain to the right of a large cave. FA: Michelle Kadatz, Steve Kovalenko

Playground Left: The wall left of the Swiss Cheese cave has 3 longer vertical routes.

Mountaineers Route D5 This is the furthest left route at The Playground. Climb broken terrain to gain a right facing corner up to an anchor. FA: Patrick Delaney.

U Crazy Roundeye! D7- Climb slabs right of Mountaineers Route. Long reaches, mantels and slabby climbing lead to the anchor. FA: Patrick Delaney.

Trumpsters D7+ Connect corners and stein pulls up the vertical terrain left of the Single Malt seam. FA: Amanda Bischke

Swiss Cheese Cave: This large cave is the home to the steepest climbing at The Playground.

Single Malt D8- Steep blocky climbing leads to the arching crack. Step left and continue up to the anchor. FA: Eric Dumerac.

Amrut D8+ Thin and steep moves lead up the left facing corner immediately right of Single Malt. FA: James Madden

Shropshire Blue D9 Long and thin moves lead up the face inside the cave right of Amrut. FA: Erik Schnack

Swiss Cheese D9- A rib leads up out of the cave. Follow the fixed draws through the huge overhang. FA: Simon Anthamatten

Rat’s Nest Wall: The lower angled wall below Swiss Cheese is home to the original crag warm-ups.

Rat’s Nest Route D4 This route climbs the short wall immediately right of Swiss Cheese. Not recommended if there is a party on Swiss Cheese. FA: Patrick Delaney

Baptism D5+ Climb the right facing corner to the right of Rat’s Nest Route. At a roof, step left and continue up to an anchor under the roof. The original route traversed right to finish on Prowler. FA: Patrick Delaney

Prowler D6 Steep moves lead to the arête. FA: Patrick Delaney

Mutt Wall: From the Prowler arête to the Pride cave, the routes are short but steep, or finish with vertical slabs.

Mutt D6+ Short and steep, just right of the arête. FA: Patrick Delaney

Jeff D8- Start in the corner below Glenfiddich. Traverse left to cracks that lead to a perfect steinpull and the anchor. FA: Patrick Delaney

Glenfiddich D7+ Climb the overhanging right facing corner to a vertical slab with a single crack. FA: Patrick Delaney

Wild Turkey D8- Climb the overhanging right facing corner right of Glenfiddich to a vertical slab finish. FA: Patrick Delaney

Triple Sec D8+ Climb the left facing corner left of the Pride cave to a slab finish. FA: Patrick Delaney

Nothing but Pride D7 Stem in 3d out of the small cave to an overhanging reachy finish. FA: Patrick Delaney

Recess Wall: To the right of the Pride cave is a slabby wall that descends to the approach trail. There are a couple of short challenging overhangs along it.

No Prejudice D4 Climb the slab up a shallow right facing corner to gain an anchor right of Nothing but Pride. FA: Brent Peters

Dodgeball D4 Climb the slab up a shallow groove right of No Prejudice. FA: Brent Peters

Red Rover D4 Climb the shallow groove right of Dodgeball. FA: James Madden

The Monitor D5 Climb the mossy right facing corner left of the Bully roof. FA: Brent Peters

The Bully D6- Climb the slab to the roof. Traverse right across the roof and up the slab above. FA: Brent Peters

Patchouli Oil D6+ About 25m down from The Bully. Climb the left side of the overhang. FA: James Madden

Dreadlocks D6 Climb the right side of the overhang, avoiding the broken lose rock on the right. FA: James Madden