Fluffy Goat Butt Face - 21 pitches, 605m, 5.11 Sport

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A long fully bolted route on the Goat Wall, next to Goat Buttress.

Requires one 60m rope, 12 quickdraws, and 6 shoulder length slings.

The approach is 1.5 to 3 hours, depending on how lost you get. Use this Google map to keep the approach time down.

Expect to take 9 to 13 hours on the ascent.

Descent is by rappelling the route (2-3 hours recommended,) or continuing to the summit and downclimbing the one of the ridges (4 hours? If you really like hiking and scrambling, it sounds OK.)

Walk-off notes from Matt Mueller:

The walk off can go a couple of ways I guess. Towards the west col on Yam or Loder peak:

Yam Col - It took us 1/2hr to get to the true summit of Goat peak(north peak). We went to the north from the anchors and wrapped up and around to the summit, basically on the ridge. Mostly scree over slabs with a bit of exposure at first. It looked like the west Yam col was quite close at that point. I would guess that descent would take 2.5-3.5 hours to the Yam parking?? I know the scramble descent to the Yam col is kind of loose and crappy, but passable.

Loder - We only chose Loder because it made our vehicle retrieval easier. It went OK, there was one exposed ledge walk/down climb (a 30cm wide ledge with lots of exposure) that we encountered (we roped up). Other than that it was basically a hike. We also missed the critical goat trail that skirts one of the peaks, so that cost some time. This critical goat trail leaves the ridge and travels well off on the east side to avoid the southern peak of Goat. There’s no doubt the Loder route is the long way ‘round! My feet still hurt :-)

Which way people go is a judgment call I suppose. To each their own…

Tyler Kirkland and Mark Carlson
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