Pinko (IV, 5.9) Rim Wall
The initial route description in the now out of print Bow Valley Rock was to two sentences.
Brandon Pullan climbed it with Will Woodhead in Sept 2013 and assembled the best known route description to date.
In addition to the route description he has also collected some of the history of both the route, and the first ascentionists.
Visit his blog for the full story and route photos.
Pinko IV 5.9+
FA: George Homer, J Jones 1973
Gear: We brought a single rack to three inches, I would double up on the big stuff. one 70m rope.
Approach: From West Wind Pass hike along base of Rim Wall until first obvious right facing corner, scramble up to base of crack.
P1: 40m 5.9 Up the corner, awkward start. At top traverse right to a corner, belay.
P2: 40m 5.8 Continue up corner, easy ledges to steeper moves. Belay on small ledge, good stance on arete out of rock fall.
P3: 65m 5.9+ Two cracks above, stay in the left one, good jams and stems to a piton and rusty bold on the face. Thin face moves, difficult, to easier climbing. Step left into a groove, up another easy crack and ledges, over a bulge to a good belay on a mossy ledge below crack, belay.
P4: 20m 5.4 Do not go up, step left blindly around the corner and across a ledge to a groove/crack.
P5: 60m 5.9+ Up the groove easily to a steep crack. Big stems and good jams in a crack on the left wall gets you up to a ledge with a piton, climb up and left onto another ledge around arete. The original route might have belayed at piton and gone up easy looking crack above, we joined into it two pitches higher.
I believe we were off route for the next two pitches. The research continues.
P6: "Grimwall Traverse" 40m 5.7R Up a steep crack to a left traversing ledge, go left, no pro after this. The ledge ends at a blank wall, commit to a shallow foot rail to the far face, up the steep wall and good rock to a ledge below a roof.
P7: "Woodhead Chimney" 60m 5.9+ Right on bad rock and towards a chimney. Difficult moves to get in, climb to a roof, large blocks, good pro. Pull through the roof on the left and stem to a ledge. Climb the steep wall above, loose rock, belay on ledge on top. This is where I believe the original route joins for the left ward traverse.
P8: 30m 5.7 Up short corners to good rock that heads left, downclimb under big corner to good belay ledge. Above should be the large steep corner that dominates this part of the cliff, a dirty roof is 20m above.
P9: 60m 5.9 Climb out left up a wide crack, awkward moves around a flake, old gear fixed inside (origial Moac made in the 60's!) At the top of the crack step left and up steep bulges to a slab and crack, belay under a roof, semi hanging belay.
P10: 30m 5.8 Step up and right into an unlikely groove, good rock, bypass roof on the right. Ramble to the top.
Descent: Down Rim Wall trail.